My trip to China, Nepal and Tibet was a yatra or pilgrimage to ten of the “fifty spiritual places I wanted to see before I died.” The ultimate destination was Mount Kailash that is considered the holiest mountain and referred to as the “navel of the world” by both Buddhists and Hindus.

Two months before my trip started I broke my fibula. My doctor said it would take six weeks to heal. I thought, perfect, just enough time to heal and the perfect opportunity to rehab.

I cashed in Mileage Plus miles for a ticket on United Airlines. I calculated later, the airfare would have been $5,500 for my itinerary. I took a layover in Sichuan province which is referred to as the “heavenly state” because its great beauty, rich agricultural and spiritual attractions.

I stayed at Sim’s Cozy Hostel in Chengdu, an oasis in the middle of China’s fifth largest city. For this part of the journey, I was on my own. I would meet up with my trekking partners later in Nepal. I visited during the monsoon season in August. It is a blessing because Chinese cities are unbelievably smoggy. The rain kept the air clean. After spending a few days in Chengdu and visiting the giant pandas, ancient Wenshu Buddhist Monastery and the Sichuan Opera, I took a two-day trip to The Giant Buddha of Leshan and Mount Emei, one of the four sacred mountains of China.

The Grand Buddha of Leshan and adjacent national park is the Chinese equivalent of the Valley of the Kings in Egypt. At over 200 feet high, it is the largest stone Buddha in the world. There was a two-hour wait in line to climb down the steep, switch back stairway and during this time I was adopted by an eight-year old Chinese girl I fondly remember as the “smiling Buddha”.

I stayed overnight at the charming Teddy Bear Lodge at the base the 10,000-foot high Mount Emei (pronounced ah-may).  This mountain is famous as the home to the Crouching Tiger monastery and the home to martial arts and thirty other active monasteries, but most pilgrims come here to see the four wonders of Emei: the Buddha's Halo (rainbow-like rings that surround and move with your shadow), the Sea of Clouds, the Holy Lamp (or Divine Lights) and the Golden Summit Sunrise. In case you are wondering how I was doing, I was still limping at this point and getting back into shape.

My flight from Chengdu to Kathmandu included a spectacular flight over Mount Everest and the Himalayas.

Kathmandu is a medieval city with a rich history. I stayed at the Hotel Tibet that is owned by Tibetan immigrants and is a jewel box with world-class hospitality. Tsering Dolkar Lama, who manages the hotel for her family, gave me VIP treatment including treating me to lunch, taking me shopping for Tibetan carpets and a hosting a special dinner at her mother’s home for the members of our travel group.

While in Kathmandu, I went to the Shiva temple, Pushnapatinath, to observe the holy holiday Teeg, where married women all wearing their red wedding saris, pray for a happy conjugal life and unmarried women pray for a good husband. I also visited the most iconic Buddhist temples, Swayambhunath Stupa, the “monkey temple”, and Boudanath Stupa. .

The overland journey by four-wheel drive across Nepal, through the Himalayas and over the Tibetan Plateau took five days mostly on unmarked, unpaved roads. The trip was 800 miles overland from Kathmandu, Nepal and requires both Nepali and Tibetan guides and drivers. A trip like this costs about $150 per day and includes your food, accommodations and transfers.

We left the lush green, warm climate to the dry, barren lunar landscape of Tibet.  I lost track of the mountain passes we drove over. Before reaching Mount Kalaish, we camped and completed the a sixty-four mile circumambulation or kora around Lake Manasarovar, the highest fresh water lake in the world at 15,000 feet above sea level. Buddhists believe Buddha was mystically conceived here. We met up with rest of our group here consisting of two emergency room physicians, a nurse, five holy men or sadhus from Uttar Kashi India and an entourage of cooks, guides and porters.

Most of Tibet is above the tree line so for nearly ten days, we were camping without heat or fires. Food was cooked using propane and we would drink a lot of hot liquids. I wore everything I could to bed at night to stay warm.

The kora of Mt. Kailash was 36 miles and took five days. The hardest part of the trek is the step ascent and descent of Dolma La pass at 18,600 feet above sea level.  The crossing of which is said to symbolize the starting of a new life. According to both Hindus and Buddhists, the spiritual benefits from making the kora and bathing in Lake Manasarovar are that the sins of all lifetimes are washed away.

I had a horse and horseman at my disposal for the kora around Kailash but hardly used it because the steepest parts, especially the descent, were too dangerous to ride. I also had purchased evacuation travel insurance in case of an accident or emergency. Fortunately, I didn’t need it. I did take medicine to prevent altitude sickness. That was a lifesaver.

For me, this was an “Indian Jones” adventure ride that included some of the world’s most sacred and exotic places and exceeded my expectations.

Trip dates: August 16, 2009 – September 13, 2009

By Burt Chojnowski